The Willamette (pronounced will – LAM – mit) Valley in Oregon shares the same latitude, rainfall, and amount of sunlight as that of the Burgundy region in France, the site of the most famous Pinot Noir vineyards in the world. Still, many thought the early Pinot Noir pioneers were wasting their time trying to grow the finicky grape in Oregon. Experts soon realized, however, that the early-ripening Pinot Noir grapes thrive in the cool Willamette Valley climate, protected as they are from extreme weather by the Cascade Mountain range to the east and the Coast Range Mountains to the west.
A Latitude Perfect for Pinot Noir
Notably, Chardonnay, another well known Burgundian grape, does not generally do well here. “The valley is not warm enough for Chardonnay,” says Ariel Eberle of Yamhill Valley Vineyards, one of the many award-winning wineries in the picturesque valley. Instead, Pinot Gris remains the most planted white wine grape, and second only to Pinot Noir in total acreage.
Oregon Pinot Noir Gets on the Map
The modern era of Pinot Noir viticulture in Oregon began in the early 1960’s, but it wasn’t until the late 70’s that the world first began to pay attention. In a 1979 grand tasting of wines in Paris that was sponsored by the French Gault Millau guide, a 1975 Eyrie Vineyard’s South Block Reserve from this valley became the first American Pinot noir to compete successfully with the renowned Pinot Noirs of Burgundy. The result firmly established Oregon in the minds of wine enthusiasts as a region capable of producing top-quality wines.
Different Areas Produce Different Styles
Most Pinot Noir vines are planted on hillsides so that potentially damaging frosts and excessive rain water linger just briefly on their way down to the valley floor. Within the general Willamette Valley appellation (or distinct wine region) there are several sub-appellations which are categorized based on their own distinctive soils, topography, and climate. It is said that even if the same winemaker makes wine from each of the six sub-appellations, each resulting wine will taste different. Also tasting different are the two recent releases, the 2006 and 2007 Pinots. The 2007 harvest was interrupted by early rains which can dilute the grapes. “The rains are always a big issue here,” says Tom Lawton of Lawton Winery in the Chehalem Mountains sub-appellation. The result was a smoother, but less robust 2007, compared to a more fuller-bodied offering from the drier, 2006 vintage.
Screw Caps Instead of Corks
Something both vintages do have in common at many Willamette Valley wineries, however, is the way they are sealed. Screw caps predominate as a way to prevent the musty, moldy aromas from tainted corks that affect an estimated 5% to 10% of wines sealed with cork. According to Lawton, “we lose some of the romance with a screw cap, but it gives us peace of mind that we will have better consistency.”
The Willamette Valley follows the Willamette River for more than a hundred miles from the Columbia River near Portland to just south of Eugene. Oregonwine.org has a helpful website for those wanting to learn more about visiting the region.
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